Mount Lhotse-8516m Expedition 2018

Lhotse from Camp1

Mt. Lhotse is the 4th highest mountain after Everest, K2 and Kanchenjunga. It is one of the most impressive mountains to climb. It is climbed from the west face. The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125 m (3,690 ft) wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Sherpa will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. The way to Everest and Lhotse is same till 7800m.

4 different camps above base camp are set to climb Mt Lhotse. The icy and rocky gully from camp-4 is the final way to reach the summit.

Fact and Figure

Altitude: 8516 m, 27.940 feet
Location: Tibet / Nepal
First ascent: May 18, 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger
Expedition: Switzerland
Summits/Deaths after summit: 525/14

Death Rate after summit: 2.67%
Facts: The climbing routes of Everest and Lhotse are same till 7800m. The summit way from camp-IV is more risky because of lots of rock fall.

Quick Look :-

Name: Imagine International Lhotse Expedition 2018

Mountain: Lhotse (8516m) 4^th highest mountain

Location: Nepal

Event: High Altitude Mountaineering

Time: 1^st April to 25^th May 2018 (Predicted time)

Team size: 10 foreign climbers

Booking: Till 5^th March 2018

Cost: 22,500/- $ USD per person

Deposit Required: 5000/- USD before 2018 January 30

Leader: Mingma G

Mingma G is IFMGA/UIAGM certified Mountain Guide. He is well trained and well experienced climber and leader. He started his mountaineering career in 2006 with his first attempt on Mt. Manaslu. Till the date, he successfully topped Mt. Everest 5 times, twice from Tibet and Thrice from Nepal. Other successful 8000m peaks which he climbed without use of oxygen are; Twice on Mt K2 (8611m), once on Mt. Kanchenjunga (8586m), once on Mt. Lhotse (8516m), once on Makalu (8463m), once on Mt. Cho Oyu (8201m), once on Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m), thrice on Mt. Manaslu (8163m),once on Mt. Nanga parbat(8125m), once on Mt. Annapurna-I (8091m), once on Mt Gasherbrum-I (8068m), Once on Mt Broad Peak (8047m). He also reached the altitude of 8300m on Mt. Lhotse via South Face, which is regarded as the longest rocky range and hardest mountain to climb.

Mingma is the first and only the Solo climber from Nepal. He soloed on Mt Chobuje (6685m) via west face in 2015. This is one of the most difficult mountains to climb.

Beside this, Mingma is the first summiter on Mt. Cheki-Go (6257m), Mt. Bamongo (6400m) and Mt Chobuje via West Face.

He also made other several 6000m peaks like 4times on Mt. Ama Dablam (6812m), Thorong Peak, Paldor Peak, Mt. Larkya North peak, Island peak, Pharchamo, Ramdung, Lobuje, Chulo peak etc.

He was honoured with “Honorary Goodwill Ambassador” for “Nepal Tourism

Mingma also took First Aid course from NOLS/WFR and Red Cross.

Expedition led by Mingma G in 2017

1. Dhaulagiri-8167m-7^th Highest- Topped in April 30

2. Makalu-8463m-5^th highest- Topped in May 11

3. K2 -8611m-2^nd highest- Topped in July 28

4. Broad Peak-8047m-12^th highest-Topped in August 4

5. Nanga Parbat-8125m-9^th highest-Topped in October 02

Everest and Lhotse separation place

Itinerary

Days 01 :             Arrival at TIA,kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel.
Days 02 – 03:     Stay in Kathmandu for official document preparation and shopping.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding - 2,840m/9,315ft
              An early morning scenic flight to Lukla. The mountain flight over to Lukla is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks.. we start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding.

Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar-3446m
The next day, Crossing the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and the Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to reach Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and the capital of the Khumbu region with genuine Tibetan artifacts

Days 06: Stay at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization.
We spend a day in Namche Bazar resting and allowing our bodies to become acclimatized to the altitude of 3,446m (11,300ft)

Days 07 : Trek to Dikuche-3800m.

Today we encounter the first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu: Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, cross the Dudh Kosi River and make a steep climb to Thyangboche, home of an impressive and newly rebuilt monastery then descent to Dibuche.

Days 08 : Trek to Pheriche -4243m.

An hour's walking from Dibuche brings us to Pangboche, an excellent viewpoint for Ama Dablam. Contouring up the valley side, re-cross the river leads to Pheriche

Days 09 : Trek to Lobuche- 4930m

The trail starts steeply to climb up beside the glacier moraine. After a couple of hours the track eventually leads to a small cluster of tea houses then to Lobuje
Days 10 : Trek to Lobuche High Camp

It is short trek. Next day , we need to ascent Lobuje so we should take rest and prepare for the summit push
Days 10 : Ascent Lobuche and descent to Lobuje base camp

Lobuje is the regarded to be the best peak for advance acclimatization of Mt.Everest. we will climb Mt Lobuje of 6119m before we go Everest base camp. This is for the reason so that we don’t have to rush inside Khumbu Ice fall. Once we climb Lobuje, we can directly go to camp-I and so on

Days 11: Trek to Gorakshep

Gorakshep is the last village on the way to Everest base camp. If we got enough time then we may trek to Everest base camp on the same day.

Days 12: Trek to Everest Base camp -5370m and then camping .

Contouring along the valley-side and looking down on the Khumbu Glacier, follow a reasonable trail to Gorak Shep where we take lunch and leaving Gorak Shep, the trail leads on to the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier reaching base camp near the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. This will be our home away home

Days 13 – 48 : Climbing period, Overnight at Tented camp.

During this period, we go up and down between B.C and camp-III for acclimatization and prepare ourselves for the summit push.

After we make summit then we come back to Base camp and clean up and then trek back to Kathmandu through same route.

Days 49 :             Trek to pheriche and Overnight at Lodge.
Days 50 :             Trek to Namche Bazar.
Days 51:              Trek to lukla -2640m.
Days 52 :             Flight to Kathmandu.
Days 53 :             Rest in Kathmandu, Overnight at Hotel.
Days 54 :             Transfer to airport, departure to your own destination

Cost Includes

1. Lhotse Climbing Permit

2. Sagarmatha National park entry permit

3. Lobuje climbing permit and allowance to Sherpa

4. Lodging & Food during Expedition and trekking to BC and back

5. Transfer in Kathmandu

6. Hotel in Kathmandu on Bed and Breakfast plan

7. Climbing Sherpa ( 1member:1 Sherpa)

8. Group Climbing gear (rope, ice crew, snow bar, rock piton, Epi gas, cooking pots and others)

9. Box Tents with big comfortable mat in Base camp and V25 tents in High camps

10. Oxygen (4cylider of 4ltr oxygen per each member & 3 cylinders per Sherpa)

11. Oxygen Mask regulator sets

12. Liaison Officer fee

13. Kitchen Staffs at Base camp and camp-II

14. National air flight. (Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu)

15. Porters to BC & back

16. Solar set at Base camp

17. Local Sim card in Kathmandu ( communication )

18. Staff insurance

19. Allowance for Sherpa & other staffs

Cost not Included

1. International Air fare.

2. Personal climbing equipments.

3. Summit bonus to Sherpa @ 1000/- USD. Once you reached at last camp, it is compulsory

4. Lunch and Dinner & Drink in Kathmandu.

5. Nepal Visa fee

6. Personal climbing Insurance

7. Helicopter Rescue if needed

8. Alcoholic drinks & beverages

9. Tips to staff if you like.

Additional service on additional payment if client want to add
1. Satellite phone charge: 2/- USD per minute call

2. Additional Oxygen cylinders of 4litres: 400/-USD

3. Mask and regulator set on rent: 300/-USD and (800/- USD: if lost)

4. Helicopter service from EBC to Kathmandu: 6,000/-USD for single charter. Helicopter can carry 4

Persons with luggage.

5. Additional climbing Sherpa: 9,500/- USD including all services and oxygen to him

GEARS

PRIMARY ESSENTIALS
1.   Passport
2.   Money, Traveler’s Cheques and Credit cards
3.   Personal Travel Insurance

CLOTHING
1.   Sunglass Normal-1
2.   Casual Clothing for travel and Kathmandu-1set
3.   Polypropylene shirt or T-Shirt-4-5
4.   Warm fleece inner-2
5.   Fleece jacket   -1
6.   Wind Jacket-1
7.   Down suit-1
8.   Down Jacket-1
9.   Down pant-1
10.   Light weight trouser-1
11.   Heavy weight trousers
12.   Fleece trouser-1
13.   Wind pants-1
14.   Polypropylene long Jons-1
15.   Underwear-5
16.   Light weight-1
17.   Light weight gloves-1
18.   Down Mitts-1
19.   Heavy mitts-1
20.   Ski Gloves-1
21.   Sun Hat-1
22.   Warm Hat-1
23.   Headband/buff-1
24.   Light weight walking shocks-6
25.   Climbing shocks-4
26.   Rain coat or Umbrella for trekking-1

FOOTWEAR
1.   Climbing Boots-1
2. Plastic/leather boots-1
3.   Trekking boots-1
4.   Gaiter-1

PERSONAL
1.   Sun and-1
2.   lip care -1
3.   Personal first aid kit-1
4.   Repair kit like (needle, threat)
5.   Reading materials
6.   Diary and Writing material
7.   Camera/video camera

EQUIPMENT
1.   Harness-1
2.   Unlock karabiners -3
3.   Screw/lock karabiners-3
4.   Descender/fig.8/-1
5.   Ascender/Jumor-1
6.   Tape slings-2
7.   Set prussic loops-2
8.   Ice Axe- 1
9.   Retractable poles- 1 set
10.   Crampons-1
11.   Helmet-1
12.   Head Lamp-2
13.   Batteries- 4sets/4times changeable
14.   Sunglass with UV rays protection-1
15.   Googles-1
16.   Water bottle-1
17.   Pee Bottle-1
18.   Ruck sack- 45-55ltr -1
SLEEPING
Sleeping Bag(20°C)-1
Sleeping Bag (30°c)-1
Thermarest mat-1

Organizer

Why With Us?

1. Safety and Security: Safety of clients, safety of staff and safety of porters is our first priority.

2. Leader: There will be at least 2 UIAGM/IFMGA internationally certified Guide in a team.

3. Experience: All our climbing Sherpa will be at least one time Everest summiteers and highly experienced.

4. Team;

A. We are committed to small team size not more than 10 clients, operating one fully guided expedition with well management.

B. All our climbing Sherpa and cooking staffs will be well trained and experienced

C. All our clients will be accompanied by 1 Sherpa at least. We don’t accept those clients who want to climb by themselves without taking Sherpa

5. We provide totally hygienic and fresh cuisine.

6. Rescue: Since our climbing Sherpa are well trained, they make quick rescue using easy and quick technique. Beside this, we also make quick airlift rescues by helicopter in case of accident.

7. Advance Communication: We provide walkie Talkie to every climbing member to ensure their position and safety. We have wifi facility in base camp and we take satellite phone above the base camp.

8. Weather Forecast : On every 8000m expeditions, we use two different weather forecasts of Mr Krishna Manandar based in Nepal and Mr Michael Fagin based in USA.

IMAGINE Trek and Expedition Pvt Ltd

Facebook: www.facebook.com/climbermingma

Website: www.imagineclimb.com

Email: mingma_sherpa53@yahoo.com/climbermingma@gmail.com

Cell: +977-9851087896/+977-9818400823 Office: +977-1-4810519

Post Box No: 12083 (Sundhara, Kathmandu, Nepal)